The Creative Director Promotes Gender Equality with Relaxed Runway Show.
Although fresh talent at Chanel and Dior created major attention during the current Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from the fashion house that completely stole the media spotlight. The event featured a unexpected guest: Meghan Markle, making her return to the European scene in a trio of years.
That Saturday night in the city of lights, the spectacle of Dior, Chanel – and even another high-profile guest – could not compete with the dramatic effect of the Balenciaga show.
Meghan, Duchess of Sussex added an extra layer of razzle-dazzle to the fashion event.
Prior to the event, the overall atmosphere surrounding Piccioli's inaugural collection had been quite calm. The fashion house is a venerated institution, and Piccioli is universally praised as a world-leading designer. Additionally, he is admired for his reputation as the nicest man in fashion. It was widely believed that extravagant catwalk stunts had departed the house of Balenciaga with the exit of Demna, known for his bold style to Gucci. However, even the nicest guys pull off unexpected moves, and the royal benediction dramatically heightened the overall excitement.
The designer considers himself an architect, creating silhouettes that never touch the human form.
Notably, the central theme of the collection's guiding philosophy, as he detailed it behind the scenes, was the empowerment of women. His starting point was the iconic sack dress from 1957, a silhouette that maintains distance from the body, not highlighting nor restricting a natural body shape. The designer explained that this look was a radical expression of a shifting zeitgeist that was starting to transition from the post-war traditionalism towards the progressive 1960s. “It was about progress for women. It released women from the weight of clothes that emphasize the physical form and focus on their anatomy. This design allowed women to move freely.”
Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were featured in the presentation, such as this enveloping coat.
Garments that maintain their own shape are central to the the brand's ethos. He likened this creative process to being an architect: building forms that never make contact with the body, while constantly considering the people who will wear and move in them. The founder was obsessed with the physique and with fabric, and with a additional component – the air between the two.”
Leading the presentation was a modern reinterpretation of the iconic dress, lengthened to an longline silhouette, accompanied by opera gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that served as a obvious reference to the bold aesthetic of the brand's recent past.
He, who at 58 sports strings of beads and charms and projects an calm, bohemian vibe, does not view seeing design as a personal rivalry. He states that it is better for designers to respect each other’s talents. He expressed that he was hoping for a harmonious balance between the traditional craftsmanship of the brand, and its more contemporary urban phase. Classic designs from the house were showcased in the collection: a structured coat, this time in a bold green hue, and a trapeze dress in a powerful violet tone.
The phenomenon of French-girl chic has become a modern money-spinner. This creative talent is an American man, but he speaks this fashion language fluently. The designer previously worked with the renowned designer during her tenure at the house, and then devoted a half-decade developing the classic label into a symbol of approachable fashion. In his current role, he is infusing the inclusive spirit of his previous work to the local aesthetic. So there were classic outerwear, natural accessories, and silk scarves used as accents – all the classic elements of French-girl chic – designed with bright hues, with an upbeat American tone. “Céline isn’t a mean brand, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” Rider stated following the event. “I hope that everyone feels desirable in these clothes. In this clothing, you may not have the strangest thing, but you have the finest outerwear, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”